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Four Meetings; A Glimpse of Gershwin

Four Meetings; A Glimpse of Gershwin

October 8, 2023

I met Eric Sevareid once.

For those of you too young to know who he was I’ll fill you in: He was an American CBS news reporter from 1939 to 1977, a member of a group of war correspondents hired by Edward R. Murrow. He was the first to report the “Fall of Paris” in 1940, when the city was captured by German forces during World War II.

When I met him, in 1971, he was in the middle of a thirteen-year stint as a commentator on the CBS Evening News. Curmudgeonly and erudite, his two-minute political (mostly) commentaries were consistently thought-provoking.

The Peabody- and Emmy Award journalist was dubbed “The Grey Eminence” by his admirers.

I was one of his admirers.

A band I was in, Woodsmoke, had traveled to Washington, D.C., to perform the music and lyrics we had written for a collegiate production of Aristophanes’s The Birds. For reasons I can’t recall, we were treated like royalty. We stayed at the Hay-Adams hotel, dined at Sans Souci and Rive Gauche, and had private tours of the Smithsonian and the White House. In addition to our playing The Birds at the Kennedy Center for the Arts, we also had gigs at Ford’s Theatre and the National Press Club, the latter of which being where I met Sevareid. I distinguished myself by accidently flicking a cigarette ash into the martini I was drinking. I gulped down the cocktail—ashes and all.

Jimmy Smith, the great jazz organist, was a friend of mine. Sorta.

I first met him at the restaurant bearing his name he had just opened somewhere in the San Fernando Valley. During a break between sets, Jimmy joined Geri and me for quick lessons about how few statues of Black people there were in these United States. We were pretty much at a loss for words until Geri suggested that he spend some of his money to erect a few statues.

He just smiled at her and excused himself to return to his Hammond organ.

“Try to play on some of the white keys,” I said as he walked away. He turned on his heels and laughed.

The following Spring I ran into Jimmy in New Orleans. He was eager to show me an area where jazz was being played for mostly local audiences, not the tourist crap in the French Quarter. So off we went to Rampart Street in the Tremé neighborhood. We went to four or five joints, entering through the front door, getting a drink, listening to a bit of music, and leaving through the kitchen door.

The following night, I returned by myself to the first club to listen to more than we had the night before. As I entered, a heavy-set man in a tight-fitting T-shirt, approached and told me that I owed for two drinks that my good buddy Jimmy Smith had ordered and that we had consumed. I had assumed that our drinks were on the house. They weren’t, I learned. I paid. I also skipped going back to any of the other clubs.

I did my part in drinking a fifth of Jack Daniel’s, a Tennessee whiskey I find repugnant. I was sharing this adult beverage with Charles Kuralt, the host of CBS Evening News’ “On the Road.”

All of this took place in a café inside the atria of the Hyatt Hotel in downtown Los Angeles. We started at 8:30 in the morning.

I was interviewing him on the occasion of the publication of yet another book about his travels. A breakfast meeting was scheduled by his publicist. Neither Kuralt nor I were big breakfast fans, something we discovered after studying the menu. He asked the waitress for the liquor, along with two glasses, a bucket of ice, and an ashtray that she would empty from time to time.

“I’m an enthusiastic smoker,” he said, lighting what I remember as a Pall Mall cigarette. I lit one of my Camel non-filters. He poured the whiskey over ice in the two glasses. We toasted and it was off to the races.

It was less an interview than it was a conversation between two men indulging in day drinking. He had lots of stories and plenty of advice: never trust a man wearing red pants; never stay in a motel with a telephone between the two beds (the mattresses would have sagged from traveling salesmen having sat on the edge of the bed); never eat in a restaurant with “horse” in the name.

Remember that if you eat in a diner with “Mom’s home cooking” stenciled on the window, you’ll discover that she was home, cooking.

It was interesting to learn that he didn’t stay in the motor home his crew piloted around the country in search of stories about the most interesting of American. He stayed in hotels and frequently traveled by plane.

His home, he told me, was in New York’s Greenwich Village. His parking space cost more than his apartment.

Sitting on the edge of an over-stuffed couch I sipped tea and watched Rosemary Clooney dash around the living room of her home in Beverly Hills. I can’t remember if she ever sat down, but she did direct my attention, along with that of her 17-year-old nephew, to the house across the street.

To our right was the home of the renowned lyricist Ira Gershwin. Jimmy Stewart’s house was across the street, its large front lawn un-fenced.

What we were awaiting was the arrival of a tour bus populated by Asian visitors. The bus arrived and the tour group unloaded and made themselves comfortable in Stewart’s front yard, unpacking their sack lunches. After about five minutes, Stewart came out of his house and reached down and turned on the sprinklers.

Through two glass panes, I watched Gershwin laugh uproariously.

How cool, I thought. He would never give me an interview, but I saw Ira Gershwin laugh. And I met the young George Clooney.

Photography by Courtney A. Liska

Smothered Chicken

Y’all make this dish, serve it with some collard greens and white rice. Throw on a jazz record, “Down by the Riverside” by Wes Montgomery and Jimmy Smith. Enjoy.

1 lb. chicken thighs

1 c. flour

2 c. chicken broth

1 medium onion

2 cloves garlic

2 tsp. garlic powder

1 tsp. onion powder

1 tsp. paprika

2 tsp. black pepper

2 tsp. salt

Vegetable oil for frying

In a small dish combine paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, salt and pepper.

Season the chicken with half of the seasoning mixture.

Add the other half of the seasoning to the flour and mix well.

Coat the chicken thighs with the flour and set them aside.

Using medium heat bring oil to a boil and fry your chicken for 8 minutes.

Remove chicken from the pan and set it aside.

Remove most of the oil from the pan, leaving about 3 tablespoons and sauté sliced onions for 2 minutes.

Add the garlic and continue to sauté for an additional minute.

Add 3 tablespoons of the seasoned flour then whisk until flour starts to brown.

Pour in the chicken broth and bring to a light simmer.

Return the chicken to the pan and cover and continue to cook for an additional 15 minutes.

Filed Under: Journal, Recipes

A Bowl of Red

June 9, 2018

Chili con carne

3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 medium yellow onions, diced
1 medium red bell pepper, diced
6 medium garlic cloves, finely chopped
1/4 cup chili powder
1 Tbs. ground cumin
2 pounds lean chopped beef
1 1/2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
1 (14-ounce) can diced tomatoes
1 (14-ounce) can tomato sauce
2 (15-ounce) cans pinto beans, drained and rinsed
1/4 cup coarsely chopped pickled jalapeños, drained

Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium heat until shimmering. Add the onions and bell pepper, season with salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 8 minutes.
Add the garlic, chili powder, and cumin, stir to coat the vegetables, and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the beef and 1 1/2 teaspoons of salt, and cook until the beef is no longer pink, about 7 minutes.
Transfer the mixture to a slow cooker, add the diced tomatoes and their juices, tomato sauce, and beans, and stir to combine. Cover and cook until the chili thickens and the flavors meld, about 8 hours on low or 6 hours on high.
Stir in the jalapeños. Taste and season with salt as needed. Serve topped with a good cheddar cheese, chopped scallions, and sour cream (optional).

Photography by Courtney A. Liska

Filed Under: Recipes

Beef Stew with Dijon & Cognac

May 8, 2018

Beef Stew with Dijon & Cognac

¼ pound salt pork, diced
1 large onion, finely diced
3 shallots, chopped
2 to 4 Tbs. butter, as needed
2 pounds beef chuck, in 1-inch cubes
2 Tbs. flour
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup Cognac
2 cups beef stock
½ cup Dijon mustard
4 tablespoons Pommery mustard
4 large carrots, peeled and cut into half-moon slices
½ pound mushrooms, stemmed, cleaned and quartered
¼ cup red wine

Place salt pork in a Dutch oven or a large heavy kettle over low heat, and cook until fat is rendered. Remove solid pieces with a slotted spoon, and discard. Add onion and shallots and cook over medium heat until softened but not browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer to a large bowl.
If necessary, add 2 tablespoons butter to the pan to augment fat. Dust beef cubes with flour, and season with salt and pepper. Shake off excess flour, and place half of the meat in the pan. Cook over medium-high heat until well browned, almost crusty, on all sides, then transfer to a bowl with onions. Repeat with remaining beef.
Add Cognac to the empty pan, and cook, stirring, until the bottom is deglazed and the crust comes loose. Add stock, Dijon mustard and 1 tablespoon Pommery mustard. Whisk to blend, then return meat and onion mixture to pan. Lower heat, partially cover pan, and simmer gently until meat is very tender, about 1 1/2 hours.
Add carrots, and continue simmering for 30 minutes, or until slices are tender. As they cook, heat 2 tablespoons butter in medium skillet over medium-high heat, and sauté mushrooms until browned and tender.
Stir mushrooms into stew along with remaining mustard and red wine. Simmer 5 minutes, then taste, and adjust seasoning. Serve with egg noodles or mashed potatoes.

Photography by Courtney A. Liska

Filed Under: Recipes

Bohemian Breakfast

March 8, 2018

Mushroom and Barley Soup

2 Tbs. butter
½ lb. fresh mushrooms, sliced
½ c. onion, diced
½ c. celery, diced
½ c. carrot, diced
1 Tbs. flour
3 cups beef stock
½ c. pearled barley
Flat-leaf parsley

In a 3-quart sauce pan melt butter over medium heat and add onion; cook for 4-5 minutes. Add celery, carrots and mushrooms and continue to cook for about 10 minutes. Stir in the flour and add the stock. Add barley, cover and simmer for about an hour. Ladle into bowls and garnish with the parsley. Serve with warm rye bread. Dobrou chut!

Photography by Courtney A. Liska

Filed Under: Recipes

Italian Barbecue

March 8, 2018

Tuscan Ribs

We spent a week in a villa above Florence, Italy, many years ago. On a Sunday morning I awoke to incredible aromas drifting from the courtyard where tables for a hundred or so had been set. A cook had a 30-foot long wood-burning grill loaded with dozens of chickens and rack after rack of baby-back pork ribs in preparation for a first communion celebration.

When I asked in my broken Italian about the ribs, he answered in his broken English that you “season them and burn them.” Maybe that’s what he said. I’m not sure.

Anyway, this is how I like to cook baby-back pork ribs. I serve them with soft polenta.

3 Tbs. fresh sage, minced
2 Tbs. fresh rosemary, minced
2-3 cloves fresh garlic, minced
1-1/2 Tbs. coarse salt
1 Tbs. black pepper
1 Tbs. red pepper
3 racks of baby-back ribs

Extra-virgin olive oil
3-4 cloves fresh garlic, sliced
2 tsp. red pepper
3, 15 oz. cans of diced tomatoes
1-1/2 Tbs. Worcestershire
1-1/2 Tbs. Tabasco
1 cup white wine
1 cup water

Combine seasonings and rub the mixture on the ribs. Refrigerate for 24 hours.
Preheat oven to 475º. Place seasoned racks in a shallow roasting pan and roast, uncovered, for 30 minutes (until slightly browned). Turn ribs and cook another 30 minutes.
In the meantime, heat oil in a large sauce pan over medium heat, add garlic and red pepper. Add tomatoes, Worcestershire and Tabasco. Simmer for 30 minutes.
Add wine and water to the sauce and pour over the ribs. Cover and cook for 30 minutes. Remove cover and cook for another 15-20 minutes.

Illustration by Courtney A. Liska

Filed Under: Recipes

Pretty Good Potato Salad

March 8, 2018

Pretty Good Potato Salad

2 lb. red potatoes, peeled and cut into 1” cubes
2 ribs celery, minced
½ medium red onion, minced
½ cup mayonnaise
2 Tbsp. dill pickle relish
2 Tbsp. finely chopped parsley
1 Tbsp. yellow mustard
1 tsp. kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 hard-cooked eggs, chopped (optional)

Put potatoes in a 6-qt. pot and cover with salted water by 1″. Bring to a boil over high heat; cook until just tender, about 12 minutes. Drain and transfer to a large bowl along with celery and onions. In a small bowl, whisk together mayonnaise, relish, parsley, mustard, salt, and pepper; add to potatoes along with eggs, if using, and toss. Chill.

Photography by Courtney A. Liska

Filed Under: Recipes

Bookbinder’s Soup

March 8, 2018

Bookbinder’s Soup

The Cape Cod Room went out of business at the end of last year. It had opened in 1933. I’ve been making Bookbinder’s soup for many years, modifying the original recipe from Bookbinder’s Restaurant in Philadelphia as did the Cape Cod Room to replace snapper turtle with red snapper and using a fish or vegetable stock rather than veal.

10 oz of red snapper fillets
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 tablespoons flour
2 medium carrots, 2 medium celery ribs, chopped
1 large onion, chopped
1 medium green bell pepper, chopped
8 white peppercorns, crushed
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 bay leaf
3 tablespoons tomato paste
2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme
2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary
dash marjoram
8 cups fish or vegetable stock
salt
a few dashes Tabasco
1/8 cup sherry

Heat olive oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat; sear and cook snapper fillets for about three minutes a side. Remove fish and reserve.
Melt the butter in the Dutch oven over medium heat and sauté carrots, celery, garlic, onion, and bell pepper for about four minutes. Add the flour; stir the mixture for about five minutes. Stir in peppercorns, bay leaf, tomato paste, thyme, rosemary and marjoram; cook two minutes.
Whisk in the stock until smooth; bring to a boil over high heat; reduce to a low simmer for thirty minutes. Add Tabasco at the fifteen-minute mark, and salt to taste.
Strain the broth, discarding solids and return broth to pot.
Flake reserved snapper and add to the broth along with the sherry.

Photography by Courtney A. Liska

Filed Under: Recipes

Caesar Salad

March 8, 2018

“The Original Caesar’s Salad”

Adapted from Tony’s business card, circa 1980
(For 2 persons)

2 medium heads of hearts of romaine lettuce, chilled, dry, crisp
Garlic-flavored corn oil, ¼ cup
Red wine vinegar, 1 Tablespoon
Juice of half a lemon
Freshly ground pepper
Kosher salt
Dash or two of Worcestershire sauce
Freshly grated parmesan cheese, to taste
Croutons, a handful or two

Cut the lettuce hearts into thirds, discarding the thick stem. Place in a large mixing bowl. Sprinkle with salt and squeeze lemon over the lettuce. Mix. Add vinegar, Worcestershire sauce and 3-4 Tablespoons of parmesan cheese. Mix. Add oil. Mix. Divide between two plates. Top with pepper, croutons and another sprinkling of cheese.

Photography by Courtney A. Liska

Filed Under: Recipes

Turkey Tetrazzini

March 8, 2018

Turkey Tetrazzini

This dish has long been a family favorite and what we always have enjoyed on the days after Thanksgiving and Christmas. It has a widely disputed origin, but I like the the version that credits Auguste Escoffier, the great French master chef, with creating the dish for the pasta-loving opera diva, Luisa Tetrazzini.

1/2 roasted turkey breast (about 4 cups), cut into bite-size pieces
8 oz. crimini mushrooms
2 large onions, thinly sliced
8 oz. spaghetti, cooked al dente
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
2 Tbs. cream sherry
8 Tbs. butter, divided
1/3 cup flour
1-1/2 cups whole milk, at room temperature

Heat oven to 400°. Butter a 9×13 casserole.

Heat 4 Tbs. butter in a skillet and sauté the onions until soft. Add mushrooms and continue to cook for about 10 minutes. Add sherry.

In another large skillet, melt 4 Tbs. butter over medium-high heat; add 1/3 cup of flour and whisk, making a roux. Slowly add 1-1/2 cups of whole milk, whisking to make a creamy béchamel.

Add turkey, onions, mushrooms, cheese and spaghetti to the béchamel, mixing gently.

Pour into casserole, sprinkle lightly with paprika and bake, covered, for 25-30 minutes. Uncover and bake another 5 minutes. Let rest for at least 10 minutes before serving.

Photo montage by Courtney A. Liska

Filed Under: Recipes

Italian Family Dishes

March 8, 2018

 

Spinaci Quatratini

The name is nonsensical (although it might have some specific meaning in a Sicilian dialect), but this simple dish is one of the greatest pasta dishes I’ve ever eaten. I had forgotten all about it.

For two generous servings, slowly saute 3 oz. of prosciutto, thinly sliced and then minced, in butter. Add one finely chopped medium onion, a clove of garlic, a cup of diced tomatoes, and “small amounts” of fresh basil, oregano and black pepper. Cook at a medium-low temperature for 15 minutes or so and add a teaspoon of chicken base (I like the Better Than Bouillon brand) and a cup of water. Add one 10-oz. package of frozen chopped spinach and cook until the spinach is thawed and the sauce is hot.

In the meantime, cook 1/2 pound of dried orecchiette or farfalle pasta (I prefer Di Martino), following the package instructions. Drain and mix the pasta and sauce. Serve with grated Pecorino Romano cheese.

An old-world style Montepulciano would be an excellent wine pairing.

Sicilian Tonno Insalata

This salad, along with some warm focaccia and a glass or two of a good Lambrusco emilia or a lively prosecco from the Veneto, makes a perfect summertime lunch.

Drain two small cans of solid white tuna and mix with 3-4 green onions (sliced thinly on the diagonal), an orange separated into sections, Italian Cerignola black olives, lots of black pepper, a couple of pinches of dried oregano and lots of extra-virgin olive oil. Serve on a bed of bitter greens.

Foccacia

This is my own recipe for the bread I served at each of my restaurants.

1 Tbs. active dry yeast
1 Tbs. sugar
2-1/2 cups warm water
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tsp. granulated garlic
1 Tbs. kosher salt
8-1/2 cups (2#, 4 oz.) flour

Mix yeast, sugar and water; let stand for 10 minutes. Add oil.
Mix flour, garlic and salt, then add to the yeast mixture.
Mix until dough forms. Knead on a floured board 5-8 minutes.
Place dough in a greased bowl; cover and let rise for 1 hour.
Spread dough onto a well-oiled sheet pan or,
divide by four and place in 4, 8″ deep-dish pizza pans.
Dimple surface(s), brush on oil and sprinkle with salt.
Let rise, covered, 30-45 minutes.
Bake at 475º for 14-15 minutes. Serve warm.

Photography by Courtney A. Liska

Filed Under: Recipes

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